Falcon Plans

• The following is a complete list to guide my work on creating my vintage rally car. Please reach out to us with any questions you may have. (info.wrightbuilt.ca@gmail.com)

  Vehicle

• A street car (daily driver) that looks like it just finished a stage race

• Feels like it just came home from the ‘64 Monte Carlo Rally (Vintage Race)

• 1962 Ford Falcon 2 door, hard top (post - 2 door)

• The spring introduction of the 1962 Ford Falcon Sports Futura added a Thunderbird-inspired roofline (with gold Falcon ornament on the C-pillar)

• Swap in 289 and manual transmission

• Weight reduction (2000 lbs goal, from advertised weight of 2500 lbs)

  Engine

• 289, balanced, ported, polished

• New rings

• New Bearings

• New Gaskets

• ¾ race cam with hydraulic lifters/springs in kit

• Assemble with care (and lots of lubricant)

• Juggle/swap new pistons and connecting rods to get the same deck height (if changing pistons/rods)

• Degree camshaft when installing

• Heads - hardened valve seat (unleaded gas) and new springs (make sure springs for older (shorter) valve stems (pre mid 1966 valve stem top almost even with retainer, does not protrude) - currently 289 heads C3AE (one dot - not Hipo)

• Rocker arms are pre 1966 which appear flat across the valve contact point (not a “rail” style the wraps around the valve stem top)

• To check camshaft end play, install the sprocket on the cam with the thrust plate in its normal position (between the cam and the front bearing journal). Use feeler gauges to check the clearance between the thrust plate and the front cam-bearing=journal thrust face. Maximum thickness feeler gauge is the end play. Should be 0.001 to 0.007 inch

• Cam thrust plate must be installed so groove routes oil from the front bearing journal to distributor shaft oil passage to the camshaft thrust surface and timing chain. (The Groove must be at the bottom rear when the thrust plate is installed.)

• Camshaft thrust plate bolts switched between countersunk or hex-head (be sure to use the right ones - check for countersunk holes)

• Regular timing chain - (double roller timing chain is less friction, but more chain stretch and may need the block clearanced)

• Windage tray - hand crank to make sure it clears

• Higher volume oil pump (not higher pressure) should be about 10 psi for each 1000 rpm

• Extra strength oil pump shaft

• New starter

• Harmonic Balancer 28 oz, 

• Timing chain cover with integrated pointer, may need to drill out dipstick hole, needs slinger for oil, make sure right crankcase oil seal (one presses in from front - lip; and one presses in from inside - no lip). Install with harmonic balancer on to correctly position

• 64-65 Timing Chain Cover, 260/289, Aluminum Pump

• Water Pump, needs a separator plate to prevent impeller scoring the timing cover

• Enlarged oil pan (wider, not deeper), hinged baffle

• Oil pickup (for new oil pan)

• Oil Dipstick (for new oil pan)

• Block heater (installed - cord hole capped unless needed)

• Oil breather over cylinder #1 to see TDC

• PCV must vent inside air cleaner, not atmosphere (race rules)

• Crankshaft needs pilot bearing for manual transmission (see Transmission and Driveline)

• V8 rubber engine mounts to reduce vibrations

• New crossover member (to clear oil pan) 

• Engine hardware kit

  Exhaust

• Oval exhaust pipe (not chrome tips) exits out the side in front of rear wheels

• Cross-over pipe, H pipe for lower revs (not X pipe = higher revs) as far upstream as possible

• ‘Bung’ for air fuel gauge (separate for tuning carb, not in car gauge)

• Do not wrap headers as no horsepower increase (only reduces heat - for comfort.  Adds weight and makes headers rust quicker.)

• 18” collector extension 3” diameter, 4 ⅛ center to center bolt holes

• Better flowing mufflers (but not annoying or illegal)

• Header s (avoid Tri-Y as reduce torque and horsepower - Engine Masters)

  Ignition

• Solid state distributor / electronic ignition 

• Ignition coil

• Better plug wires, custom fit with separators

  Cooling

• Galaxy radiator - larger for V8 (enlarge core support opening)

• Overflow (coolant) tank – see through

• Shroud on fan

• New rad hoses to fit larger radiator

• Better fan (electric fan or clutch)

• Fan 17”, curves go towards radiator

• Radiator bolts

  Fuel System

• Fuel system (tank/baffles, lines, joining rubber lines, fuel pump, carb) all ethanol compatible

• Single (low pressure) fuel line for carburetor (increased diameter from 5/16” to ⅜”), also larger diameter inline fuel filter (⅜”)

• Protect pickup line from fuel cell with skid plate

• Tune carburetor with vacuum gauge

• If installing a ‘bung’ in exhaust - tune carburetor with air fuel meter

• External fill - monza cap/aircraft cap with lock

• 20 gallon fuel cell  with fuel level sender and baffles, mounted low in body, but no closer to ground than 15 cm (No lower than rear axle when suspension bottomed out)

• Original fuel tank was mounted off centre. Mount new fuel cell centred so no change in handling with changing fuel load.

• Improved mechanical fuel pump, for 450 HP carbureted engine needs 40 gph (155 lph), carburetor will range from 4 psi to 7 psi

• 4 barrel carb, 500 cfm, vacuum secondaries, electric choke (Holley 4150) - for up to 5500 rpm OR Autolite 4100 at 480 cfm (go bigger 550 or 600 due to less than 100% volumetric efficiency)

• Large stock style air cleaner housing (with two oval openings) painted Ford blue

• Dual plane manifold with heat crossover (choke heat) - prefer Edelbrock Performer (not RPM as under 5500 rpm)

  Transmission and Driveline

• Manual transmission, 4 speed - front shaft length 167mm

• Driveline u-joint - install so zerk is in compression

• Manual shifter and linkage mounts directly to transmission

• Flywheel, 28 oz, 157 tooth, 10 “ clutch

• Pilot bearing

• Flywheel bolts (grade 8) - use loctite

• 10” clutch

• 10” disc

• Throw-out bearing

• Driveshaft loop (max 6” behind front u-joint)

• Scatter shield bellhousing (likely not due to cost)

• 5 bolt bellhousing (not approved as scatter shield) for 1964 289 

• Spacer plate 64-65 Transmission to Block Spacer Plate

• Transmission T10H-1 W.G. DIV W-1 A29  (Bottom) 5J23A51B201 (OR 5J23A51B2101)

  Brakes

• Rear stainless steel brake flex lines (teflon coated) (Rubber front included in kit)

• Return spring on brake pedal (and clutch if hydraulic)

• Pressure actuated brake light switch

• Parking brake (hand lever) in middle console

• Bench bleed master cylinder before installing

• Need to fabricate - bracket from solid line to flex line for front brakes

• Front disc brake conversion kit for 1965 Mustang (for front 1965 spindles)

• Dual reservoir, manual master cylinder

• Proportioning valve

• Silicon brake fluid (to 550 degrees) as silicon based fluid won’t absorb water (no need to flush old fluid out of lines as all new parts)

• Residual valve, drums rear

• Residual valve, disc front

  Steering

• Integrated vibration dampener and u-joint on steering

• No power steering

• The majority of the steering components have been changed to 1965 parts to accommodate the V8 engine. 

• Both upper and lower control arms upgraded to 1965 Mustang to allow for 1965 spindles (larger ball joint studs)

• Alignment specifications for Shelby Drop

• Steering box and mounting bolts) upgraded to 1965 Mustang

• Need nut and lock washer for 1” sector shaft

• Steering Box mounted with new bolts (larger diameter than Falcon) for 1965 Mustang mount.

• Need u-joint/vibration dampener for connecting steering shaft to steering box

• GT40 style steering wheel (flat dish, 3 wide metal spokes)

• Steering Wheel Adapter

• collapsible steering column with quick release

  Wheels and Tires

• wheels have full travel (suspension and steering) with larger tires

• tire size, same front and rear Firestone tires (235/65-15? 205/65R15?)  Original 185/70-R13

• steel rims, same front and rear, 5 stud wheels (15 X 6, 5X4.5, 3.75? or 4.25? or 4.5? backspace) 15” to clear front disc brake callipers

  Front Suspension

• Cut front springs to lower front end (stiffens front suspension)

• Shelby drop - reduces bump steer, lowers front end (used Alexander 3D printed template)

• 1970-73 front bump stops are wider and more robust than the stock 65-69 bump stop

• Shock Tower Bolt/Nuts

• Front strut rod bushings (bought) but had no sleeves 

• Anti-sway bar (front), if adding rear sway bar than front needs to be larger if everything else equal

• Polyurethane bushings for front anti-sway bar (needs to match diameter of bar)

• Front Suspension Parts replaced with 1964-1966 Ford Mustang

• Front Shocks Falcon, Comet, Monro-Matic Heavy Duty Shock gas-charged

  Rear Suspension

• Station wagon springs have extra leaf - stiffens rear suspension

• Rear Leaf Spring Shackles

• Rear Leaf Spring Bushings

• Rear Leaf Spring Bolts

• Lower ride height (max 4”) (rear lowering block) 2” wide spring about 4” long perch

• Oversized diameter U bolts on rear axle mounts for strength, axle diameter 3”

• Rear Shock Plate Mounting Rear Axle to Leaf Spring 2” spring, 3” axle

• New perches - to move inboard to match springs. Use AntiWrap (longer) perches

• Rear axle - 56” from outside (mounting face) of brake drum, spring perches 43” apart, u-joint centred, gears off-set to left limited slip differential (3.70????)

• Limited slip (e.g., tru loc) Need to know number of splines

• Better ratio -- could be 3.70

• Rebuild kit for rear axle

• Rear Shocks Falcon, Comet, Monro-Matic Heavy Duty Shock gas-charged

  Chassis

• add doubler on the cowl at the export brace mounting point for strength

• Increased size of subframe with Mustang front subframe members, notched for subframe connectors

• Monte Carlo brace

• Rear subframe (repairs)

• Subframe connectors

  Interior

• Fire suppression system (covered so no tampering with windows open when parked) - likely just a fire extinguisher initially

• Safety film on all glass (as per rules)

• Roll bar, 6-point with adjustable (for helmet) head support (check area dimensions), seat mounts, 5-point harness mount Need diagonal on main cage hoop

• 5 point harness to be HANS compatible (driver and passenger)

• Metal behind rear seat and package tray (with spray on sound deadener) to stiffen and block fumes from battery/fuel cell

• Jack, tire iron, and tool roll (no rattles) in trunk

• Aluminium foot plate for passenger

• Heater and defrost 

• Close mounted pedals (to be able to heel/toe)

• All systems ok with doors unlocked/windows open (no tampering)

• Ear plugs (decidamps) in console

• Replace door pads

• 12 v (cigarette lighter) port next to glove box

• Registration and insurance locked in trunk (so windows can be down)

• No back seat / spare tire on mount with knock-off spinner (must mount to wheel nuts to avoid tire squeak from vibrations)

• Black console

• Use a (white) spray/roll-on sound insulator in trunk and rear seat (e.g. second skin or lizard skin)

• Aluminium door panels with no armrests (spray sound deadener on back), pulls made from straps

• Race rear view mirror (4 panels - 28”)

• Low back black seats with adjustment sliders

• Weld body seams

• All sound deadener/undercoating removed

• Knock off spinner for spare tire in back seat

  Electrical

• Dash gauges plus tach, oil pressure, ammeter

• consider voltage gauge (not amp gauge) for less current flow (risk) in gauge wiring (also volt idiot light)

• Idiot light for any system that uses a gauge

• Tachometer

• Mega fuse close to battery (in main feed)

• Alternator replaces generator 

• Alternator Adjuster C5AE-10145-A bracket

• Alternator Upper Mount C5AE-10156-B bracket

• Alternator mounting bolts

• Battery, mega fuse, and solenoid in trunk (reduces power when not starting), seal box vented with drain externally, non-conducting if battery shifts, battery double bolted

• Battery box, black

• Solenoid (relay)

• Battery relocation kit (wires)

• Extra ground straps

• External shut off on rear panel

• Headlights – on in run position (able to shut off during race), off during starting: High Beam – normally off and switch covered

• Horn – push button on dash (can’t locate on the simple steering column)

• Use clutch pedal for starter control (must be pushed in to start)

• Headlights and clearance lights operate with dash lights

• Heater (fan) not needed in accessory or start

• Nothing live in off (no drain)

• No dome light

• Position of uncovered switches – normally down (like cover)

• Switches in panel below dash (no drilling dash)

• Back up lights – covered switch or automatic

• Tie wiring harness with flat cord (like aircraft)

• Windshield wiper motor (not vacuum and no vacuum reservoir) 

• Windshield washer electric pump to replace foot pump

• Side number marking lights 

• Proper lighting (3rd brake light, side markers amber-front, red-rear)

• Mini amber and red lights for side markers 

• (2) LED licence plate lights/bolts 

• Test wiring with trickle charger before battery (low amperage)

• Need to ground all electrical, extra ground straps, ground engine to frame

• Use start button (with keyless ignition to make it look like no key needed) - Put the sensor (fob) next to the cut off - then glue the fob to the cut off

• Optima Battery 

• Front signal lights (same as a Cobra) 

  Starting

• Car Engine Push Start Button 

• Starter Switch Panel

• New wiring 12 circuit 

• Ford Thunderbird Headlight Bulb Pgtl, For 3-Prong Sealed Beam, Low Bms In 2 Or 4 Lamp Sys, 58-66    

• 110 assorted rubber grommets 

• 42 assorted rubber clamps

• String to tie wire loom

• Universal turn signal switch 

  Body / Exterior (non-structural)

• No body filler (use shrinking disc on high spots)

• Louvre hood to let heat out (away from high pressure at base of windshield)

• Smooth existing firewall (not filler panel)

• Fill any holes in engine bay

• Use primer and paint from one manufacturer (system)

• Front spoiler/valance (Mustang style) (flare any air holes) brake ducts?

• keep stock valence so sheet metal crosses the opening

• Windshield and rear window clips and straps - if using threaded inserts, once insert installed - tack weld as well

• Painted rear bumpers - tuck in?

• If rear wheels are covered by body panel, jack needs to lift body, not frame, to remove wheel

• Steel pop rivets (no dissimilar metals)

• Tail spoiler

• Roll fenders

• Do a special thing (pinstriping, sign, lettering) on door by latch so a surprise when open

• No front bumper - air dam holds lights

• Need to brace hood (where it flexes when fully open)

• Body splash shields mount with staples (pushed through pre-drilled holes and bent)

• Fender seals mount opposite side from flange

• Hood hinge (race car) allow complete opening

• 2 hood pins with lanyards (and safety catch)

• 2 Hella Driving lights

• Roundelles (meatballs) on doors

• Tow points front and rear

• Two (both) side mirrors  Raydot 

• Sponsors Stickers

• Custom made stickers (retro)

• Monte Carlo Rally plate and stickers

• Rebuild door hinges

• Headlight sheet metal and trim

• Weatherstripping and Seals

• 1962-1963 Futura roof exterior pillar emblems 

  Interior Sheet Metal

• Toe Board, Left 

• Floor - drivers

• Floor - passenger

  Exterior Sheet Metal

• Quarter Patch Panel - Rear Right

• Quarter Patch Panel - Front Half - Right

• Quarter Patch Panel - Rear Left

  Hardware

• 1965-1966 fender to cowl clip

• 1962-1963 hood bumpers

• 1960-1964 adjustable hood bumpers 

• Ford Mustang Lower Front Valance Mounting Kit

• 1965 master body kit black zinc finish

For further information:

While I am building my rally car, I will be documenting what I have learned to share with you. If you would like to know anything about my process or progress, please contact me; form or email - info.wrightbuilt.ca@gmail.com